Where on a cold and gusty Ash Wednesday the city is full of signs and symbols: smudged crosses on foreheads at every intersection, a thick black NY Yankees symbol tattooed on a heavyset white man's Adam's apple, a black man in a buttoned up trench coat and Yankees knit hat sleeping at his usual Starbucks post and across from him the two overweight, bespectacled women brainstorming the perfect question to ask "important Jewish artists" settle on "Name your greatest hope and greatest fear."